how to replace a toilet to tile bathroom floor
We're planning to put ceramic tile in our bathroom, but the cement backer
board and the ceramic tile will raise our floor just under 3/4 inch.Is
this going to be a problem when we go to replace the toilet (will the
sewer drain go high enough)?Also, how would you make it so that the door
can open freely (It has exactly 3/4 inch extra room now, so this might not
be an issue)?Sand the bottom of the door? We have not removed the toilet yet or anything.l thought l would hammer out this question before doing that.
Toilet - You can buy a flange extender that fits into the
existing flange and raises it up enough to seat the toilet. then use the
regular wax ring and johnny bolts.
Door - depending on how much you need to remove, sand, plane or saw, in
that order. If you saw, score the cut line with a sharp blade first to
prevent splintering when you saw.
Your best bet would be to install a closet flange extension.
They are made for this very thing. As far as the door, using a circular
saw with a straight edge clamped to the door will be cleaner and faster
than sanding, if you need to raise the door edge.
Go to a Home Center and purchase a flange extender that is the
thickness needed to bring it up to floor level. They come in various
thicknesses. Make sure you screw it/them down to the floor through the
holes in the original flange. Using double wax seals is a great way to
clog up your drain pipe since they can slide while installing the toilet.
You can sand or cut a bit off the bottom of the door.
There are extra large wax ring seals that are made for that
situation. Or you can unscrew the existing flange & shim it up to the new
floor level. Only be sure that the sewer pipe that it is connected to has
enough play in it to move up that 3/4''. To remove a toilet, first empty
all the water. Do this by turning off & disconnecting the supply &
flushing the tank. Hold the flush valve until as much water as possible is
out then using a sponge remove the rest. Use a cup to get most of the water out of the bowl & again use a sponge for the rest. There will be some water retained in the toilet trap so when you remove the whole unit be careful not to tip it. Just unbolt it from the flange & carefully break the wax seal by pulling up & rocking the bowl.
Turn off the water valve behind the toilet, & flush to remove
as much water as possible from the toilet. Remove the caps at the base of
the toilet on each side & remove the nuts from the bolts. You may need to
straddle the toilet & rock it back & forth to break the seal of the wax
ring. Lift the toilet out of the way & set on cardboard or plastic.
Stuff a rag in the drain to keep sewer gas from coming out. Scrape the
wax off of the flange with a putty knife. Reinstallation is the reverse. You may need longer bolts & an extra thick wax ring due th the new floor height. As far as the door goes, it will need to be cut. Measure 1/2 up on each side, then use a straightedge to draw a line. Use a sharp utility knife & score the line. This will keep the veneer from tearing out. Use a circular saw & cut the line. That should give you plenty of clearance. Hope this helps.
I run into this all the time tiling.. I most often use a
double wax rings w/ the rubber sleeve..You ll have to get the 3 inch bolts
to reattach the stool..One trick to help ya. I buy an extra set of nuts and
washers and actually tighten the bolt down to the flange in case you bump
the bolt when resetting the stool.
The door may or may not need cutting off wait and see GL
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